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Is there a move away from wine to whisky in the european market?

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par Antoine Bouchard
Burgundy School of Business - Msc Wine Management 2016
  

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INTRODUCTION

On one hand, whisky is trending and is becoming more and more popular. For instance, France is currently the biggest whisky drinker worldwide. On the other hand, wine, despite its important awareness and domination notably in terms of consumption is going through a change in behaviour in Europe (but not only). Indeed, a noticeable decrease in wine consumption is observed in many European countries. The purpose of this article aims to see what are the evolutions in wine and whisky consumption: Are there more whisky drinkers to the detriment of wine drinkers? What are the trends in the different countries? What are the drivers of the consumption changes? What could we forecast for a near future?

Thus, the first part of this research is aimed to get a global overview on the European Wine and Whisky market with the overall consumption of both alcohol beverages and the different trends. The second part is designed to have a whisky focus with the different producing countries as well as new incomers in order to see their influence on the consumption. The third stage is an exploratory research with a snowball sampling (quantitative survey) which aims to put in evidence different consumption behaviours for both wine and spirits. The survey will help us estimating the price people are ready to pay for a good bottle of wine and/or whisky, in which circumstances do they like drinking, when and the frequency. The last and final part is a discussion. It will be based on the quantitative survey results analysis and supported by other documents study to figure out what are the consumer behaviours and expectations. The conclusion will try to forecast where both European wine and whisky markets are going.

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LITERATURE REVIEW

France can boast about a great heritage as regards to wine as well as spirits (Cognac, Armagnac, Anise drinks), but it should be noted that French are quite fond of another distilled alcohol but rather confidentially in the country: whisky (La consummation de whisky: une étude exploratoire du comportement du consommateur dans le contexte français, M-F. GAUTHIER, C. LABORDE, B. MAZIERES, p.3).

Where does this dynamism and enthusiasm come from? The «flexibility» in terms of means of consumption (in cocktails, neat etc.) gives whisky more opportunities and it is reinforced by brands activity and distributors with regards to advertisements and promotion (Le whisky, superstar des spiritueux toujours en croissance, M. BAILLY).

According to Guillaume Deglis head of Vinexpo, the consumption tendencies for the next five years will be supported by whiskies as well as bourbons since they managed to bring innovation

to their offer. Brown alcoholic drinks (including whiskies) are surfing on this cocktail, parties in bars trend more and more praised by women and millennials. The whisky market should thus increase from 9% from now to 2018, Bourbon from 19% (Whisky et bourbon, nouveaux chouchous du marché des spiritueux, P. DENIS).

As of today, the spirits universe has never been as much diverse and multi-coloured. Ranges of spirits in supermarkets shelves and in specialised shops are so varied and internationalised and

the demand for luxury drinks has never been so important. Bars, cafes, restaurants, clubs have now a cocktail menu that is getting bigger and bigger (Encyclopédie des Alcools et Spiritueux, A. DOMINE, 2009, 1st ed. H.f. Ullman, p.15). Whisky's good health is notably due to Europe's consumption.

What about wine? The wine market is not going well everywhere in the world, in Europe as well. By 2018, worldwide wine market should rise by 3.7% which is not a lot compared to

whisky to reach 2.732 billion of 9 litres boxes, which represents 32.78 billion bottles. China

where consumption progression levels were reaching explosive rates (+70% between 2009 and 2013), consumption has suddenly slowed down since 2013 because of Beijing's anti-corruption

measures (Whisky et bourbon, nouveaux chouchous du marché des spiritueux, P. DENIS). Generally speaking, Europe also has a decreasing wine consumption but is this drop due to a better consumption? Is it benefiting whisky consumption?

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I. European Wine & Whisky markets

1. Old & New world wine & whisky consumption

Many evidences have revealed that winemaking is known for millennia. With current level of knowledge, the scientific consensus is that winemaking has been first performed in Caucasus region, probably in Armenia. Wine is an alcoholic beverage, produced by the fermentation of the grapes. Worldwide, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) has drafted in 1928 a resolution which states the legal definition of wine: «no other product that those obtained by the alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes juice can get the wine appellation».

Since 1973, OIV has decided that wine can be obtained only by the complete or partial alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes, whether or not crushed, or of grape must.

The wide variety of wines existing in the world can be explained thanks to the variety of vineyards, wine varieties, winemaking methods, or ageing. That is why we have red, rosé and white wines, dry or sweet ones, or even still or sparkling. Viticulture has spread all over the world and many countries are wine producers.

All over the world, wine names in the different languages have in common the V letter (or its variant W) and the N: vera (Albanian), Wein (German), wine (English), vino (Spanish, Italian, Croatian, Czech), vin (Danish, French, Islandic, Romanian and Swedish), vein (Estonian), viini (Finish), ... with 2 exceptions: ardo (Basque), and bor (Hungarian) (Indifferent Languages).

There are more than one million winemakers in the world who produce approximately three billion cases of wine each year. The production is projected to have approximately grown by 2.2% in 2015 (274 million hectolitres), due to solid harvests thanks to great climatic conditions in many countries which allowed the vineyards to get matured grapes and perfect conditions for harvesting.

According to the Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV, 2015), the world wine consumption represented 240 million hectolitres in 2015, which equals 32 billion 75cl bottles, and it has increased by 0.9 billion hectolitres last year.

It is important to notice that the consumption/production ratio is not really balanced.

The overall demand is increasing but is it the case everywhere in the world?

About two thirds of the world wine consumption relies on only ten countries.

Furthermore, the wine business is changing shape: The Old World (which basically represents Europe) leads the wine consumption for now but it is gradually losing its pole position.

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Yet, these outcomes confirm a change in this consumption from the traditional producers such as France or Italy to other wine producers, although more recent, but also wine enthusiasts, the United States and China. There are indeed new actors from the New World (outside the traditional area of wine-growing).

As you can see on this graph, and looking at the variation 2015 vs 2014:

- The first consuming country are now the United States, which overtook on France since 2012 and it keeps increasing.

- At the second and third place, we found the traditional consuming countries (France and Italy) with a decreasing trend in France and a stable consumption in Italy.

- Germany, China, UK and Argentina wine consumption show a slight increase, while Russia's and Australia's consumption are declining.

There is a noticeable rise of consumption in countries outside Europe even though wine is undeniably one of the most popular alcoholic drink there.

Spirits are also popular alcoholic beverages in the world and whisky belongs on the top alcoholic beverages and is one of the most popular spirits.

The word whisky is English and came from the Celtic word uisge in Scottish Gaelic (or uisce in Irish Gaelic). «Uisgue» or «uisce» means simply «water»; by adding »beatha», you get the Celtic word «water of life» uisge beatha» in Scottish Gaelic and «uisce beatha» in Irish). When English people has discovered this spirit, they have only kept the first part of the word and wrote it their way: «whisky».

Whisky finds its origin in Ireland. The legend says that Saint Patrick, the patron saint of the Irish, has brought himself the secret of the distillation in Ireland at the 5th century. This secret has then crossed the sea to join Scotland. Irish and Scottish are still claiming the fathering of this famous beverage!

Whisky has a slight advantage compared to some beverages, for instance Cognac or Champagne (governed by an appellation system): it can pretty much be produced anywhere.

Source: Wikipedia

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And so, whisky is everywhere. Scotland, Japan, the United States, Ireland, India, Sweden, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa ...

Furthermore, there is another way to spell the word «whisky» which is «whiskey». Should we say whisky or whiskey then? Well, it differs geographically: the American and Irish write «whiskey» and the Scottish, Canadians and the rest of the world write «whisky». Where does this come from?

It started during the 19th century. Scotch whiskies were of poor quality and were inadequately distilled in Coffey stills (see photo on the right). For exportation in the US, the Irish distillers wanted to discern their production from the Scottish competitors, therefore they added an «e» to point out their difference. Nowadays, Scotch is one of the greatest spirits in the world but the spelling still varies. Americans still spell their whisky with an «e» but some distillers prefer the Scottish spelling (Maker's Mark for instance for their Scots ancestors).

But what is whisky?

Whisky is a term that designates spirits obtained by the distillation of malted and/or non-malted cereals, then aged in wooden barrels and containing at least 40% alcohol.

There are different types of whiskies depending on the raw materials entering in their recipe, or on their production process:

- A Single Malt whisky is made of malted barley from a single distillery.

- A Pure Malt whisky is also elaborated with malted barley but from several distilleries. - A Blend is a mix of malt and grain whiskies from different distilleries. It can also be a mixture of two or more whiskies that will be bottled and sold as one whisky.

These three `whisky types' can be produced anywhere.

However, there is on top a national appellation system. Thus Scotch, the most popular whisky but also the best-selling whisky can only be produced in Scotland.

It is the same with the Irish whiskey in Ireland, or Bourbon in the United States.

To be considered as a Bourbon, the whisky has to be produced in the US, the grain mash must be at least 51% corn and the mixture also has to be stored and aged a minimum of 2 years in charred oak containers.

Rye whiskey can refer to Canadian whisky or American whiskey and must be distilled from at least 51% rye.

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Regarding the consumption, here is a graph showing the biggest whisky (and/or whiskey) drinkers in the world.

According to this Euromonitor analysis:

- France, Uruguay and the United States ascend to the top 3

- The original producing countries (Ireland and UK) arrive respectively in 7th and 8th position - India (in 9th position with 1,24L/capita, is by far the world's biggest drinker due to its population: approximately half of the world's whisky is drunk there). Some interesting remarks on to the Indian market: They are not only the biggest whisky consumers, their whiskies are also part of the world's top 10 whiskies (in volume). United Breweries, an Indian conglomerate is also the world's largest whisky company by volume. It owns several important subsidiaries, notably United Spirits Limited (which manufactures McDowell's), the world's best-selling whisky according to The Millionaires' Club (Officer's Choice and McDowell's No. 1 are respectively the top 2 whiskies sold in the world).

Why are these whiskies so powerful on the international market and yet not very well-known, even from whisky amateurs?

First off, they benefit from their own national market. With 1, 2 billion habitants and a middle class boom, India is the world's first whisky market. So when Scotch producers sell 90 million whisky cases in the world, meanwhile approximately 120 million of local whisky cases are being consumed in India!

Problem is, according to regulations, the Indian whisky (except Amrut, actually sold in the European market and others) is simply not whisky. Distilled from molasses (the liquid obtained

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after the cane sugar extraction), it is sometimes mixed with a little bit of malt or grain whisky. Outside of the subcontinent, it would be labelled as Rum, thus it cannot be sold on the European market or anywhere else as `whisky'.

Outside the United States, Australians, New-Zealanders, Germans and British are big consumers of American whiskey.

Concerning the US, Beam is responsible for more than 40% of the US Bourbon sales which accounts for almost half of the American whiskey market. According to the International Wine and Spirit Research, the United States consumes roughly 70% of the whiskey it makes.

2. Focus on the European market

Let us now have a look on the consumption trends for wine and Whisky in the 5 main European countries:

France:

Whiskies: With more than two hundred million bottles sold every year, whisky (Scotch, Bourbon, Rye or Japanese) is the most consumed spirit in France to the detriment of Cognac. In the wine country, whisky is the king of spirits.

As we saw previously, with 2.15 litres per capita, it represents nearly 40% of the total spirit consumption (Fédération Française des Spiritueux, FFS).

Overall, 120.9 million litres of whiskies have been consumed in France in 2015 (FFS). With a market share close to 40%, whisky surpassed pastis (73.84 million litres, 24% market share), rums (30.31 million litres, 9.9% market share) or white alcohols (tequila, gins, vodka, 29.56 million litres and 9.6% market share).

Spirits market share

Source: Nielsen

Eaux-de-vie

0,50%

White alcohols

9,62%

Armagnac

0,20%

Calvados

0,20%

Rums

9,92%

Cognac

0,20%

Liquors

9,12%

Aniseed drinks

24,15%

Bitters

4,41%

Whiskies

39,48%

Others

2,20%

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Nearly 80% of spirits (77.2%) are bought in supermarkets/hypermarkets. The rest is divided in away-from-home catering, specialised retail shops... According to the FFS, the spirits turnover is 4.6 billion euros in 2015. In 2014, about half of the total turnover (46.9%) was generated by whisky sales (2.09 billion euros). In volume, there is a slight decrease of -0.5% of spirits sales (279 million).

Wine: France's wine consumption is regularly declining since the early eighties.

Since 1980, France AgriMer performs every 5 years a survey on wine consumption in France. 4000 people, representative of the French population, are interviewed, in order to understand the real behaviors of people in wine consumption: motivations, frequency, quantity, and also opinions and attitude that people can have vs wine. Last survey was made in 2015 (8th edition). According to this survey, 51% of people drinking wine were drinking every day or nearly every day in 1980 while in 2010, only 17% of the population drinking wine were drinking every day. The percentage of people drinking wine occasionally in 1980 was 30% and 45% in 2010, an important increase compared to the freefall with more «regular drinkers».

The proportion of French who never drink wine keeps growing and all changes in drinking habits are observable through generations' attitudes.

According to the results of the 2015 survey, wine perception is improving. A renewed interest is observed between 2010 and 2015, with a more important part of the population declaring liking wine taste. This trend correlates well with the growing interest of French people for cooking, the come-back of home-made food, cookery programs, and wine and food pairing.

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Wine is more consumed at the aperitif moment, especially white and rose wines (red wines are more associated to the lunch moment).

Wine seems to move from one of the components of a lunch to a more cultural drink.

The UK:

Whisky:

It is interesting to analyse the information provided by IWSR (International Wine and Spirit Record). This agency claims to be the leading source of data and analysis on the alcoholic beverage market. It covers 155 markets in total.

According to the IWSR, the whisky market represents 1.2 billion bottles in 2015. The spirit market is indeed quite significant in the UK: with 139 million bottles of gin, 58.5 million bottles of vodka, 1.1 billion litres exported to foreign markets (2013) which 28.2 billion pounds in economic activity.

Vodka is the N°1 consumed spirit, representing nearly 30% of the UK spirit consumption, and Whisky arrives 2nd with 25.56%.

Spirits market share

Source: The IWSR (2013)

National Spirits

0,05%

Brandy

6,30%

Tequila

Cane

0,60%

0,10%

Gin / Genever

8,90%

9,00%

Rum

29,89%

Vodka

Flavoured Spirits

19,59%

Whisky

25,59%

:

18,49% 6%

1,1%

Wine: According to the IWSR, the UK wine market is the 6th largest wine market in the world. UK wine production represents only 0.01% of the local consumption and so UK must import nearly the totality of its consumption. Indeed, the industry generates 17.3 billion pounds in economic activity to the British economy and 10 billion pounds in sales.

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More than 80% of wine sales take places retail outlets, the remaining sales are through bars, restaurants and hotels (in other words away-from-home catering).

UK is an important wine consumer. According to the OIV, the UK reached 12.9 millions of hectolitres in 2015. It is a small growth compared with 2014 and it also counterbalance the drop between 2013 and 2014.

Wine is the most popular alcoholic drink in the UK according to the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) and is not just limited to connoisseurs. It is actually the preferred choice for millennials (in that case people between 25 and 34 years old) when it comes to drinking with over half (57%) picking wine over other alcoholic drinks. Also, women tend to drink more wine than men.

White wine is favoured over red consumption (47% of all sales in 2015 versus 42%). Rosé wines also share a small percentage (11%). Sparkling wines shows the most important growth thanks to Prosecco and Cava and are perceived to have a better value for money than Champagne. Fruit flavoured wine as well as low-alcohol wine also show potential for the future and can be a threat to still Rosé wine (United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)).

Ireland:

Whiskey: Ireland ranks in the top 10 for biggest whiskey consumers. With 1.24 litres per capita, the country is head to head with India and is almost overtaking the United Kingdom. Overall, spirits consumption has increased from 1.9% from 2014 to 2015.

Worldwide sales of Irish whiskey keep rising: a 10.1% growth with 62 million litres in 2013 (55.8 million litres the year before (source IWSR)).

Ireland knew an intricate story with whiskey. It was not so long ago the world whiskey leader but it went through tough times and the most affected city was actually Dublin, the spiritual mother of Irish whiskey, where it all began. It was abandoned in 1976 after Jameson's pot still fire stopped. At that time, Irish whiskey hit rock bottom: while Scotch whisky conquers the world, it was just considered as a bizarre, an odd beverage barely used to rinse out someone's glass.

What was in the past a proud industry at a global scope was reduced to two companies producing bad quality whiskies (a pure euphemism), which totally accepted their ignorance of the Irish pot still tradition. Dark times for Irish whiskey, almost vanished due to war, trade restrictions, Prohibition, economic difficulties etc.

It was only in 1987 when the Irish entrepreneur John Teeling founded the Cooley distillery. His sons, Jack and Stephen worked for the company until 2012 when it was bought out by Jim

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Beam. They simply figured that they wouldn't be satisfied working for an important group. Anyway, the demand for whiskey was rising, consumption too, awareness as well notably thanks to the group Irish distillers' Jameson (Pernod Ricard) and their important marketing. From the eighties until 2012, there was only three companies which distilled whiskey. In May 2015, five companies distilled whiskey. With more than twenty distilleries under construction or planned, new actors, a growing (and reborn) reputation, American consumers as a support, Irish whiskey is getting better.

Wine: Wine is not the most popular alcoholic drink in Ireland, beer is. With almost half of alcohol consumption (47%), beer won't be dethroned anytime soon. Wine is actually the second most consumed alcoholic drink with a 27,7% market share, followed by spirits (18,7%) and cider (6,6%) (Source: Irish Revenue Commissioners Clearance Data).

Women are more likely to drink wine than men (61% versus 39% (TGI Data 2015). Also, wines from Chile are the best-selling wines with a 25.3% market share (more than 2 million cases), followed by Aussie wines (18.1%, 1.5 million cases) and France (14%, 1.2 million cases). Wine sales are mainly through off-trade (grocery, independent retail etc.) with 80.9% market share, the rest is on-trade (away-from-home network: bars, restaurants etc.) with 19.1% (Source: IWA Country of Origin Survey, AC Nielsen and other trade reports).

Italy:

Whisky: Overall, Italians drink less alcohol now.

In last international ranking, Italy is at the 32nd place (Source Euromonitor survey).

In less than 10 years, we observed a 23% decrease in rate of alcohol consumption which makes an average of 4.4 drinks per week in 2014 (versus 5;6 drinks per week in 2006). This fall is actually due to a drop in wine consumption over this period (31%). However, the consumption of beer and spirits remained the same.

Wine: Regarding the consumption, the country experienced a modest growth and is behind France and the United States.

As we said previously, the country's falling drinking rates is due to many things.

Eating habits which changed with lunch losing its position as a «family meal», wine is now mainly consumed during dinner (before it was usually drunk during both). Also, the proliferation of non and low-alcoholic drinks played a central role in wine consumption habits with a growing «health awareness».

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On the production side, Italy dethroned France and became the world's biggest wine producer with 48.9 million hectolitres (versus 47.4 million hectolitres). It represents a 10% increase compared to 2014 (source OIV).

Germany:

The following graph shows Germany's alcohol consumption. As you can see there are two sets of line: The first set on the left show data from West Germany since data from the East was difficult to gather. The second set shows data when Germany was finally reunited.

Whisky: On average, spirits consumption remained stable throughout the years.

22nd in the ranking of the whisky consuming countries, with 0.45 litre/capita;

Wine: Germany saw a small growth in wine consumption with 20.5 million hectolitres.

Even if Italy dominates wine production, it has been surpassed by Germany for the consumption. It is actually the first time Italians have been overtaken by Germans according to the Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV).

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